The Best Watches at LAPADA at Every Price Point

Stainless Steel OMEGA Genève ‘Admiralty’ Wristwatch
, 1969, £4,500

For those beginning a vintage watch collection, this stainless-steel OMEGA Genève ‘Admiralty’ offers an attractive combination of strong design, respected watchmaking and everyday wearability.

Introduced in 1953, OMEGA’s Genève line was named in tribute to the company’s Geneva workshops, where its precision movements achieved numerous observatory records. By 1970, Genève watches represented approximately 60 per cent of OMEGA’s unit sales, making the collection an important part of the brand’s post-war history.

Made in 1969, this example captures the increasingly bold design language of the period. Its black dial is framed by an outer minute track and punctuated by applied baton hour markers. An orange centre-seconds hand introduces a distinctive flash of colour, giving the watch a sportier character than a conventional dress model. The 36–37mm stainless-steel case is paired with a leather strap, while its manually wound calibre 601 movement encourages the pleasing daily ritual associated with mechanical watches. Understated yet full of period detail, it is a compelling entry point into vintage collecting from one of Switzerland’s best-known manufacturers.

OMEGA Precision, 1950s, Timewise Vintage Watches, £5,900

For a slightly different take on vintage OMEGA, Paul Pfanner of Timewise Vintage Watches has selected this steel Precision wristwatch from the 1950s. Its restrained design and classic mid-century proportions demonstrate the quieter side of post-war Swiss watchmaking, offering an eminently wearable vintage piece at £5,900.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual, 1960s, Timewise Vintage Watches, £9,980

One of Rolex’s most enduring designs, the Oyster Perpetual combines the brand’s waterproof Oyster case with its self-winding Perpetual movement. This 1960s example offers an understated route into vintage Rolex, without the overt sporting character of models such as the Submariner.

18ct Rose Gold Patek Philippe
Ref. 2592 Calatrava Wristwatch, 1960, £13,500

At the next price point is a refined example of one of watchmaking’s most enduring designs: the Patek Philippe Calatrava.

First introduced during the 1930s, the Calatrava has become synonymous with classical dress-watch design. Its appeal lies in restraint rather than complication, demonstrating how careful proportions and subtle details can give a seemingly simple object a lasting presence. This reference 2592 dates from 1960 and is housed in a 34mm case made from 18ct rose gold. Its concealed lugs allow the case to flow almost uninterrupted into the leather strap, creating an especially clean silhouette. The warm tone of the rose gold is balanced by a crisp white dial, applied gold baton hour markers and elegant gold sword-shaped hands.

Inside is Patek Philippe’s manually wound calibre 23-300. Celebrated for its refined construction, the movement complements the simplicity of the exterior and reflects the technical expertise for which the manufacturer is renowned. It would make a refined addition to an established collection or an exceptional introduction to one of the most prestigious names in watchmaking.

Patek Philippe Calatrava, 1990s, Timewise Vintage Watches, £15,500

Another interpretation of Patek Philippe’s enduring Calatrava comes from Timewise Vintage Watches. Dating from the 1990s, this example retains the elegant proportions and restrained design that have defined the model since its introduction in 1932. At £15,500, it offers a more contemporary counterpoint to Somlo’s 1960 example at a similar price point.

18ct Yellow Gold IWC Ref. 378 Diamond and Turquoise-Set Bracelet Watch
, 1978, POA

At the highest collecting level, this extraordinary IWC reference 378 blurs the distinction between watchmaking and fine jewellery.

Made in 1978, the watch combines an 18ct yellow-gold case and bracelet with vivid turquoise and diamonds. Its turquoise dial is complemented by gold dauphine hands, while the linked bracelet continues the arrangement of precious materials around the wrist. At 34mm, it has a strong visual presence without losing the elegance expected of a jewellery watch.

The piece is powered by IWC’s manually wound calibre 185/1, bringing traditional Swiss mechanical expertise to an exuberant late-1970s design. IWC traces its origins to 1868, when American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones established the company in Schaffhausen, combining Swiss watchmaking traditions with modern engineering ideas. What makes this particular watch especially desirable is its rarity: according to Somlo, only four examples were produced. Its bold colour, precious materials and extremely limited production transform it from a functional timepiece into a highly individual collector’s object.

Rolex Submariner, 1957, Timewise Vintage Watches, £43,000

Historic, recognisable, sports-watch collecting.